Introduction: An Ancient Kingdom of Greece
The 'Caryatis' project in Macedonia Greece, is a deeply personal photographic journey that blends the timeless beauty of black and white photography with the rich cultural heritage of northern Greece. This project was inspired by the ancient Caryatids, the sculpted female figures serving as architectural supports in ancient Greek temples, symbolizing grace, strength, and timeless elegance. My travels through Macedonia for this project connected me with the region's pagan customs of Northern Greece, vibrant traditions, and captivating landscapes, all beautifully captured in monochrome. I have travelled across the country from Athens to Macedonia on many occasions throughout my photography adventures.
*The name Macedonia (Μακεδονία) comes from ancient Greece and the tribe “Makedni” as described by Herodotus. It originates from the Doric Greek adjective “Makednos”, a word mentioned by Homer to describe a very tall poplar. The same adjective is described by the lexicographer Hesychius of Alexandria as a Doric word meaning “great” or “heavenly”.
Table of Contents
Video from the trip to Florina and Prespes, in Macedonia, Greece.
Below, find a video I put together during one of many trips to the regions of Florina and Prespes' Lakes in Macedonia, northern Greece.
Volax, Drama, Eastern Macedonia
My adventure in Volax, Drama, began on a snowy day that nearly thwarted my plans. The initial plan was to photograph the local traditional pagan customs. The journey was challenging, with heavy snowfall threatening to block the roads. I arrived just in time, only to find the village transformed into a winter wonderland, blanketed in thick snow. The picturesque scenery was both a blessing and a curse; while it provided stunning photographic opportunities, it also trapped me in the village. The village sits in the north of mainland Greece, close to the borders with Bulgaria, to the North of the city of Kavala.
Equipped with my camera and snow boots, I ventured out to capture the essence of Volax. The local women, adorned in their traditional dresses, stood out beautifully against the snowy backdrop. Their attire's vibrant patterns and textures created a striking contrast with the serene whiteness of the landscape. Each photograph told a story of resilience and tradition, as these women carried on with their daily lives despite the harsh weather. After one day, my car was buried under snow, and I had to dig it out with shovels, a small price to pay for the incredible images I captured.
Pontic Costume at Lake Kerkini, Central Macedonia
Lake Kerkini, situated in Central-North Macedonia, near the Greek-Bulgarian border, is a haven for wildlife and a paradise for photographers. My visit there required navigating icy conditions, but the effort was well worth it. The lake, partially frozen, presented a unique challenge as I glided carefully on the ice by car to find the perfect spot.
The stillness of the lake, the snow, and the occasional movements of birds created a surreal atmosphere. I focused on capturing the beautiful Pontic costume, against the serene beauty of the landscape. Ourania had brought her costume with her. She was a woman who lived nearby and is a collector of authentic folklore dresses. Each photograph from Lake Kerkini is a testament to the peaceful coexistence of nature and tradition in this part of Greece.
Prespes Lakes, Florina
My travels took me to the Prespes Lakes in Florina, a region known for its breathtaking natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. I visited this area twice, each trip offering new experiences and photographic opportunities. The locals welcomed me warmly, sharing stories and traditions that added depth to my work.
The Prespes Lakes are surrounded by mountains, creating a dramatic backdrop for my photographs. I focused on the traditional costumes of the region, capturing the intricate details and vibrant colors in monochrome. I have photographed the local folklore dresses in several locations. These included local churches, barns and houses. We have also ventured to the surreal islet of Saint Achilles, a small island located inside the small Prespa lake. There, I have taken some photographs with the locals amongst the ruins of the Saint Achilles Cathedral.
Kastoria, Western Macedonia
Urban Costumes
In Kastoria, a lakeside jewel city renowned for its fur trade and beautiful mansions near the borders of Albania, I had the opportunity to photograph urban costumes in a traditional mansion. The mansion's architecture, with its intricate woodwork and elegant interiors, provided the perfect setting for my photographs. The models, dressed in authentic urban costumes, brought the past to life as they posed gracefully in the historic rooms. The black and white images captured the elegance and sophistication of Kastoria's urban heritage.
Rural Costumes
Our search for rural costumes took us to the village of Lefki. A village near the lake town of Kastoria. We found an old house that, despite being abandoned, held the charm of a bygone era. Breaking in was a last resort, but it allowed us to create images that preserved the rustic beauty of rural life in Macedonia. Of course, the people helping me out with the dresses knew the owners, so we had their approval. The simplicity of the rural costumes, set against the decaying backdrop of the old house, told a poignant story of tradition and change. I liked the portraits I created inside this house. I managed to manipulate the light with several props found inside the property. The clothes were of two distinct types. The darker ones and the ones that have a white front.
Local Dresses of Kozani, Shot in Siatista
In Siatista, a beautiful town known for its traditional architecture and vibrant festivals, I met with local girls who proudly wore their traditional dresses. After the photoshoot, we enjoyed coffee at a local café, where the girls shared stories about their community and customs. The warmth and hospitality of Siatista's residents were evident in every interaction, and the photographs reflect the joy and pride they take in their heritage. They even had a bag of gifts they offered me with local produce. We found ourselves inside two local traditional mansions. The first one serves today as a folklore museum. This is the mansion of Tsiotsios Christos and Nterou Tatiana. The second one is an abandoned local mansion that is about to be renovated by the municipality. That is the mansion of Manousis. This is where I photographed the folklore dresses of Kozani, Tsartsampas and the Kamvounia dresses.
Urban costumes of Kozani
Kozani's urban costumes are renowned for their quality and authenticity. Each piece is a work of art, meticulously crafted and preserved. Photographing these costumes was a privilege, and I aimed to capture the intricate details and the stories they carry. The images highlight the craftsmanship and dedication that go into maintaining Kozani's cultural heritage.
Costumes of Tsartsampas
The costumes of Tsartsampas are distinctive, featuring a white dress that symbolizes purity and tradition. Photographing these costumes was a unique experience, as their simplicity and elegance stood out in the black-and-white format. Each image captures the essence of Tsartsampas' cultural identity.
The Kamvounia
The Kamvounia dress is simpler compared to other regional costumes, yet it holds a unique charm. Its understated elegance and connection to everyday life make it a significant part of Macedonia's cultural tapestry. Through my photographs, I aimed to highlight the beauty in simplicity and the importance of preserving even the most humble traditions. My favorite photograph is the one against a hand-painted wall, inside Manousis Mansion.
Costumes of Naoussa
The ancient city of Naoussa is famous for its Genitsari and Boules costumes, worn during the town's vibrant carnival celebrations. I visited the town a few years ago to photograph this event. During this time, I had the chance to ask three girls to wear the local folklore dresses and pose for a few shots around the town. Photographing these costumes was a visual feast, as their elaborate designs and bright colors created striking contrasts in black and white. Each part of these dresses tells a story of Naoussa's rich cultural heritage. We made these portraits around the streams of Naoussa.
Meliki, Imathia
In Meliki, a village situated an hour's drive away from the city of Thessaloniki, I stayed at the house of George Melikis, a local historian and cultural enthusiast. Our days were filled with exploring the village, meeting residents, and enjoying meals at a local tavern that used its produce. The photographs from Meliki capture the essence of village life, the warmth of its people, and the beauty of its traditions. I had a great time and explored the place to find the right spots for my photography. I have selected an old local house as my first venue that whispered tales from the past. Furthermore, I believe that the local architecture is a kind of sibling to the local attire. What they share is the value of heritage. They are two possessions that people are reluctant to part due to their ancestral nostalgic value.
I have also created some portraits amongst fields of local produce. Namely, a tobacco and a pistachio plantations. These are the dresses of “Roumlouki” and the headscarf is considered to be inspired through the centuries by Alexander the Great's helmet, since the time of the ancient Macedonians. The two women that you see standing next to each other in the tobacco plantation are known as “Lazarines”. This is a traditional local costume that is worn during Easter.
Veria, Imathia
Veria city's local dresses, preserved by the Lyceum Club of Greek Women, are authentic pieces of cultural history. Photographing these treasures was a journey through time, each piece a window into the past. The images from Veria are a tribute to the dedication of those who preserve and celebrate their cultural heritage. I have met with the ladies of the Lyceum's board, and we made friends. We had dinner together, and they helped me find contacts for other projects in Greece. This is something invaluable in this line of work. Wherever I went I met with dedicated people who are passionate about Greek heritage. I mention this now, but it is true for every last place I visited in Macedonia.
Kostellides Group, Shot in Meliki, Imathia
Finding the right spots around Meliki for the Kostellides group was an adventure in itself. Each location had to complement the traditional costumes and enhance their beauty. The images from this shoot are a blend of careful planning and spontaneous moments, capturing the spirit of Meliki. With the invaluable help of a local folk dance instructor, I managed to find both the sets and the extremely rare costumes. These costumes are rarely seen even in museums in Greece. They are authentic pieces owned by the families who wore them.
After visiting a local home that kept the local character we ventured up to the mountains. Going around the area through dirt roads, I found a spot that in my mind complemented the folklore dresses. The curves of the lines and the trees made me feel I was in the right place and this is where I created another portrait.
Sometimes people ask how difficult it is to create a photograph. In all honesty, I never feel it's difficult at all. In my mind, all it takes for me is to pick up the camera and photograph. However, if I try to reverse engineer and analyze it, it surely takes more than that. All this information after all these years is embedded inside my head and I do not have to think about it. I just need to see. It feels more like driving a car. For me, the most successful photograph is one that looks very simple. One that the viewer thinks to themselves: “I could easily do that”.
The Nomadic Group of Vlachs, Shot on Seli, Imathia
Photographing the Vlachs Nomadic Group on Seli, Imathia, was an unforgettable experience. We ventured up the mountain in dense fog, searching for the perfect spot. The fog added a mystical quality to the photographs, creating a sense of timelessness and mystery. Each image reflects the resilience and adaptability of the Vlachi people, who continue to live in harmony with nature.
We went up in the mountains after creating some photographs inside an old local home in Seli. Seli is famous for its ski resort and is located near Veria, in Imathia. I was happy with the images shot inside the house, but every time I see fog I am tempted to photograph in it. Therefore, I asked everyone to follow along through the misty mountains. As soon as we arrived the sky was clearing out, but I knew that the hints of fog remaining would provide mystery into my photographs. I asked the ladies to do a bit of climbing, and they bravely obliged. I didn't know which one was it. Had I gained their trust as a photographer, or were they too passionate about their heritage?
Polypotamos, Florina
Staying in Prespes and driving through the snowy mountains to Florina was a daily challenge, but the breathtaking scenery made it worthwhile. I got stuck once during the pitch-black night and I had to install the chains in my car. On another day, I nearly lost my drone as it got overheated by the humidity in the mist. I had landed it to avoid crushing it, but I didn't know where it was. I almost ran over it with my car while looking for it. I got a few shots though that you can see in the video above.
Polypotamos is quite near Florina, about 20 minutes by car. I went there to photograph the local folklore dresses, with fifteen people wearing them no less. I found an old local traditional home and I liked the idea of placing them all together inside it to create a complicated photograph. The photographs from Polypotamos capture the enduring traditions of its people. Below you can see the final image and in the next two photographs, you can see two more images that show how this photograph was built piece by piece.
Kladorachi, Florina
In Kladorachi, we decided to work in the Monastery of the Dormition of the Virgin. I met the local priest as we arrived, who shared stories about the village and the monastery, nestled in a forest covered in snow. He was a film and film direction enthusiast, so we got along pretty well. We started with some portraits inside the monastery's church and the priest also stood for some of them. We then moved outside in the snowy local woods and created some more photographs. The images from Kladorachi reflect the peaceful coexistence of spirituality and nature, capturing the serene beauty of the church and its surroundings.
Skopos, Florina
The local school in Skopos has been transformed into a folklore museum, preserving the cultural heritage of the area. I was around this area again a few years back, when I was looking to photograph the fires of Christmas for my 'Ethos' project. I found the village of Achlada where I took my photos, the one next to Skopos on the way to Florina.
Photographing the women wearing the costumes inside this museum was a journey through the history of Skopos, with each artifact and costume telling a story of the past. The images highlight the importance of preserving and celebrating local traditions. I arrived in the village with seven women, but two more local ones put on their folklore dresses and joined the party. After the shooting, we all gathered in the local restaurant for some “tsipouro” (an alcoholic drink made from distilled grapes, similar to Italian grappa) and “mezedes” (the Greek tapas).
Drymos, Thessaloniki
Drymos is a village near Thessaloniki. I drove there on the day of the shooting early in the morning, for a repérage. It is difficult nowadays to find houses keeping the traditional architecture with minimum interventions. Especially in destinations so close to big cities such as Thessaloniki. Since arriving earlier, the man who was helping me locally, proposed to have a coffee. As soon as we finished coffee, he proposed to have a glass of Tsipouro, since traditionally, this is what they have after coffee in these places. A couple more local Macedonians joined our table. With Tsipouro they brought some food (mezes) and after we had that, he ordered a second one. I tried to protest, but they used the traditional argument: “You have two legs, so why have only one tsipouro?” It makes no sense but provides the exculpatory excuse to have more.
The house we had found was brilliant and provided the necessary traditional flair, perfect for my photographs. The house, with its rustic charm and authentic details, provided the ideal setting for capturing the essence of Drymos' heritage. The images reflect the beauty of everyday life and the rich cultural wealth of the region.
Aggelochori - Folklore Dresses of Naoussa's Valley Villages
The valley of Naoussa is a beautiful geographical region in Greece and one with many villages to explore. This is where the “Xinomavro” grape variety thrives. A variety that was sought after to be equal to the Burgundy varieties since the 19th century. Xinomavro was threatened by phylloxera to extinction. Luckily, the famous wine-maker Yannis Boutaris with a team of scientists, managed to salvage the variety. In 1971, Xinomavro received the Protected Designation of Origin and today, there are more than 50 vineyards that provide us with this delicate and complex flavor.
We chose Aggelochori, a village attached to the village of Poliplatanos since we found a beautiful traditional house in the area. Before the photoshoot in Aggelochori, we enjoyed ouzo at a local café, a moment of relaxation and camaraderie. Finding a semi-abandoned house for the shoot added a touch of nostalgia and authenticity to the images. The house was now used as a warehouse by a local farmer. The props gathered from the rooms around the houses enhanced the storytelling aspect of the photographs, capturing the spirit of Naoussa's valley villages.
Ermakia, Ptolemais, Western Macedonia
Ermakia is a village near Ptolemais in Macedonia. The surrounding territories are beautiful and I had the time for some sightseeing. That includes the nearby villages, nestled inside of pockets created between mountains. In Ermakia, I photographed a group of five women, wearing the local folklore dresses. The group included a bride in her traditional veil, a symbol of purity and tradition.
The veil has a specific traditional significance that I find enticing. It was believed that during the wedding ceremony, the bride lingers in the world of spirits, between life and death. This is because the wedding is a transitional ceremony from being single to that of the bride. The veil was thought to protect the bride and “excuse” her from the world of the living. The blurred vision provided by the veil also helped her navigate more easily in this universe.
Finding the right location was crucial, and we discovered a beautiful old house and a serene spot inside a local valley amidst the mountains. The images from Ermakia are a celebration of love, tradition, and the enduring beauty of Macedonia's cultural heritage.
Conclusion
The 'Caryatis' project has been a journey of discovery, not only of the breathtaking landscapes and rich traditions of Macedonia but also of the resilience and spirit of its people. Through black and white photography, I aimed to capture the timeless beauty and cultural depth of this region. Each image tells a story of tradition, change, and the enduring connection between people and their heritage. This project is a testament to the importance of preserving and celebrating cultural traditions, ensuring they continue to inspire and enrich future generations.
Adventures in black and white photography through the 'Caryatis' project in Macedonia, Greece, highlight the timeless beauty of the region's cultural heritage. From Volax's snowy landscapes to Kastoria's urban costumes, each journey offers a unique glimpse into Macedonia's rich traditions and natural splendor. Photographs capture the essence of traditional attire, and the harmony between people and nature, creating a visual narrative that preserves and celebrates the region's cultural legacy.
Love xx
Take a fine-art print home, upgrade your space with black-and-white photography and help toward the realization of important ethnographic work.
