The art of traditional Greek costume-making is a vivid reflection of history, culture, and identity—and few regions in Greece exemplify this as beautifully as Messenia, a region in the Peloponnese, Greece. As part of my ongoing project, Caryatis, I had the incredible opportunity to delve deep into the heart of Messenia to photograph its iconic costumes. This journey took me to Kalamata, Alagonia, and Kyparissia, where I captured the distinct urban and rural costumes curated by the Lyceum Club of Greek Women Kalamata. Their president, Tzina Karelia, played a pivotal role in granting me access to these rare treasures, ensuring that this exploration became an unforgettable chapter in the Caryatis story.
For those following my work, you can also visually experience this trip through my vlog, now live on YouTube. Watch it here.
Exploring the Costumes around Messenia, part of Peloponnese, Greece
The Historical Tapestry of Messenia
Messenia, located in the southwestern part of the Peloponnese, is a land steeped in history. The region's cultural heritage is a testament to centuries of influence, from its ancient cities like Messene to its Venetian castles and Byzantine churches. This rich historical backdrop is woven into the fabric of its traditional costumes. Each stitch, pattern, and colour tells a story of the region’s past—of its agricultural roots, trade connections, and even its struggles for independence.
The costumes of Messenia are as diverse as its landscapes. The lush olive groves of Kalamata, the mountainous terrain of Alagonia, and the coastal charm of Kyparissia each bring unique elements to the traditional attire. It was this diversity that I sought to capture during my trip, and I’m thrilled to share the journey with you.
Kalamata: The Elegance of Urban Costume
Kalamata, best known for its olives and vibrant modern culture, is also a hub of tradition. The urban costume of Kalamata reflects the sophistication and affluence of a city that has long been a centre of trade and culture.
My hotel was located in Kalamata during this whole trip, so I could walk to the Lyceum Club which acted as our base of operations. This is the place where the ladies would get dressed and then travel to each destination. For the shooting of the urban costume of Kalamata, we used the building of the Lyceum Club, as it was a beautiful neoclassical house.
The women’s urban costume, which I had the privilege of photographing, is a masterpiece of craftsmanship. Its intricate embroidery, delicate lacework, and rich fabrics speak to the city’s cosmopolitan influences during the 18th and 19th centuries. The use of gold thread and silk highlights the importance of Kalamata as a trading port during the Ottoman era.
I made some images using a backlight and haze to create a lusher atmosphere for the scene. For the photograph shown at the top, I used my light which I bounced off the window's curtain to create a larger source and a softer light result for the model.
Alagonia: The Simplicity of Mountain Life
In stark contrast to the urban elegance of Kalamata, the costumes of Alagonia reflect the simplicity and practicality of rural mountain life. Nestled in the Taygetos mountain range, Alagonia is a small village where traditions run deep.
The costumes here are characterized by earthy tones and durable fabrics—a nod to the agrarian lifestyle of the region’s inhabitants. Women’s attire often includes woollen skirts and aprons, with striped patterns.
I have created these portraits in two different locations. We first visited the house where Nikitaras was born, a significant heroic figure of Greece, in the village of Nedoussa. For these images, I used the natural light coming in from the door. At sunset, we moved to the monastery of Mandraki, where I created a group portrait inside its historic church. For that one, I used a haze machine and a backlight to create this ethereal result.
Kyparissia: Coastal Grace
Kyparissia adds yet another dimension to the tapestry of Messenian costumes. This coastal town, with its blend of Venetian, Ottoman, and Greek influences, is reflected in its traditional attire.
The costumes of Kyparissia are lighter and more flowing, suitable for the warmer coastal climate. Bright colours and floral patterns dominate, reflecting the town’s connection to the sea and its lively trade routes. Accessories such as embroidered shawls and headscarves complete the look, adding an air of grace and femininity.
Location scouting drove me to two different locations for these portraits. The first location was an empty traditional local mansion that was at the time being renovated. The second location was an interesting opening amongst the ruins of a local house, next to the castle. I was excited that I found it as I had to search quite a bit for it. I used only natural light on both occasions.
The Role of the Lyceum Club of Greek Women Kalamata
None of this would have been possible without the invaluable support of the Lyceum Club of Greek Women Kalamata. This organization, under the dedicated leadership of Tzina Karelia and Victoria Karelia before her, has worked tirelessly to preserve and promote traditional Greek costumes and dance. Their collection of costumes is meticulously maintained, each piece a testament to their commitment to safeguarding cultural heritage.
During my visit, I was struck by the club’s passion for education and storytelling. Every costume comes with a history, a story of the woman who wore it or the occasion it was made for. This narrative element added immense depth to my photographic journey, allowing me to connect with the costumes on a personal level.
Behind the Lens: The Caryatis Vision
As part of Caryatis, I aim to document and celebrate the beauty of traditional Greek attire while bringing it into a contemporary conversation. Photographing the costumes of Messenia was both a challenge and a privilege. The interplay of light, texture, and colour required careful attention to detail, while the historical significance of each piece demanded a respectful approach.
Through this project, I hope to shed light on the artistry and cultural significance of traditional Greek costumes, inspiring others to explore and appreciate their heritage. Each photograph is a tribute to the countless artisans and women who have kept these traditions alive.
Reflections and Takeaways
My trip to Messenia reinforced the importance of preserving cultural heritage in an ever-globalizing world. The costumes of Kalamata, Alagonia, and Kyparissia are more than just clothing; they are living testaments to the region’s history, values, and identity.
As I reflect on this journey, I am filled with gratitude for the warm hospitality of the Messenian people and the opportunity to explore their rich traditions. The Caryatis project continues to evolve, and I am excited to see where the next chapter will take me.
Join the Journey
If you’ve enjoyed this glimpse into the costumes of Messenia, I invite you to follow along as I continue to explore and document Greece’s cultural treasures. Be sure to check out the vlog for a behind-the-scenes look at this trip and subscribe for updates on future adventures. Together, let’s celebrate the beauty and diversity of Greek heritage.
Watch the vlog on YouTube and join me on this journey through history and art.
Have you visited Messenia or explored traditional Greek costumes? I’d love to hear your thoughts and experiences in the comments below. Let’s keep the conversation going!
Love xx
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